Colombia's LGBTQ+ Travel Landscape

Notwithstanding its problematic past connected with drug cartels, Colombia has, over the past two decades, experienced a substantial metamorphosis. Moreover, despite the enduring prominence of Catholicism, Colombian society is frequently perceived as more accepting than its regional counterparts, primarily attributable to the inherent diversity of its populace. Nevertheless, it remains crucial to acknowledge that a significant degree of machismo continues to be pervasive, particularly within the nation's rural precincts and especially along its coastal expanses.

In Colombia, the statutory entitlements and safeguards extended to individuals identifying as LGBTQ+ are widely regarded as being among Latin America's foremost progressive. Marriage equality received legal sanction across Colombia in April of 2016, with the inaugural nuptials between same-sex partners being solemnized in Cali during May of that same year, specifically on the twenty-fourth. Furthermore, within the legislative sphere, the national Congress enacted a statute outlawing discrimination based on sexual orientation in 2011; concurrently, the adoption of children by same-sex pairs gained legal approval in 2012, while the entitlement to change one's registered gender has been enshrined since 1993. The nation's forward-thinking legal framework and protective measures have, without doubt, secured for it the esteemed designation of "best LGBTQ+ emerging destination" at the FITUR 2017 tourism exposition held in Madrid; this distinction also contributed to Colombia's recognition by the World Travel Awards in 2018 as the "Leading LGBTQ+ Destination in South America."

Bogotá and Medellín, the nation's two primary urban centers, each boast a significant LGBTQ+ enclave; notably, Bogotá's Chapinero district is home to Theatron, an enormous superclub acclaimed as the largest LGBTQ+ establishment across Latin America. Along Colombia's Caribbean coastline, Cartagena stands as the most frequented urban hub, concurrently enjoying considerable favor among LGBTQ+ visitors. Indubitably, Colombia presents a compelling draw for LGBTQ+ tourists, a characteristic largely attributable to its myriad captivating destinations.

Reasons to Visit & Optimal Travel Periods

One may embark on a journey to Colombia during any season, as it serves as an accessible year-round destination. Its climatic conditions, however, demonstrate significant variance contingent upon your precise geographical location. Bogotá, the nation's capital, is positioned within the majestic Andes mountain range, elevated to an approximate altitude of 2,640 meters (8,661 feet). Consequently, Bogotá experiences cooler conditions than numerous other areas across the nation, maintaining mean temperatures generally between 12-14 degrees Celsius (54-57 degrees Fahrenheit) consistently throughout the annual cycle. Conversely, Cartagena, at the opposing climatic extreme, boasts a predominantly humid, tropical environment, where average temperatures consistently exceed 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) year-round. Medellín, by contrast, strikes an optimal equilibrium between these two extremes. Its climate is distinctly more vernal, characterized by mean temperatures hovering around 15-18 degrees Celsius (60-65 degrees Fahrenheit) across the entire year. Hence, it has fittingly earned the moniker 'The City of Eternal Spring.'

Additionally, prospective travelers could contemplate aligning their visit with one of the numerous annual festivals held across the nation. Among the most distinguished of these celebrations are the Barranquilla Carnival, typically occurring in February; the Flower Festival in Medellín, usually held in August; and Cali's Salsa Festival, which takes place in September.

Notable Urban Centers for Exploration within Colombia

BOGOTÁ

Serving as Colombia's principal city, Bogotá concurrently functions as its capital. Within its confines, a vibrant LGBTQ+ scene has flourished, predominantly situated along Carrera 9, specifically between Calles 58 and 60, within the Chapinero district. Visitors will discover a multitude of establishments to explore, including notable venues such as El Recreo de Adán, Estación, Village Cafe, and Brokeback Mountain, among a host of others. For those visiting Bogotá, the preeminent draw is undeniably Theatron, an enormous nightclub. This venue holds the distinction of being Latin America's largest LGBTQ+ club, ingeniously segmented into thirteen distinct mini-clubs, each distributed across five levels. Each of these spaces features a unique thematic focus; for instance, one chamber specializes in contemporary pop chart-toppers, another caters exclusively to women, a third is reserved solely for men, and yet another dedicates itself to reggaeton music. Furthermore, Bogotá serves as an excellent operational hub from which to explore prominent sightseeing landmarks, such as Monserrate Mountain, the revered Gold Museum, the historic Candelaria district, or to embark on a single-day excursion to the Salt Cathedral. A flourishing drag community is also present in Bogotá, which convenes a multitude of drag-related events and performances consistently throughout the calendar year. For additional insights into Bogotá, consult Passport Magazine >>

CARTAGENA

The venerable historic district of Cartagena, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, presents itself as a captivating labyrinth of quaint cobblestone pathways and vividly painted colonial-era edifices, with their origins tracing as far back as the 1500s. A modest LGBTQ+ social scene is present within Cartagena, featuring notable establishments such as The City Club and Gabanna. Annually in July, a circuit-style celebration known as Rumours takes place, which is orchestrated in conjunction with Cartagena's municipal Pride festival.

MEDELLÍN

Medellín, once widely regarded as Colombia's criminal epicenter, has nonetheless experienced a profound metamorphosis over the last decade, evolving into one of the nation's most secure and technologically advanced urban centers. This city is additionally characterized by its exceptional friendliness towards the LGBTQ+ community, a trait largely ascribed to the inherently hospitable nature of the 'paisas' (the local inhabitants of Medellín). The local LGBTQ+ social landscape encompasses venues such as Bar Chiquita, Donde Aquellos, and the Viva gay club. El Poblado, serving as the city's primary tourist nucleus, offers an abundance of the most exquisite restaurants, lively bars, and premier hotels. As dusk descends, particularly around Parque Lleras within El Poblado, the urban landscape truly awakens, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. For further details concerning Medellín, reference Passport Magazine >>

Compelling Sights to Explore Across Colombia

CARTAGENA'S HISTORIC CORE

Cartagena's historic Old Town stands as Colombia's premier tourist magnet. This venerable district was originally erected by Spanish conquistadors, serving as a bulwark to secure their gold reserves against the predations of pirates. Presently, the Old Town has transformed into a vibrant tourist hub within the urban expanse, characterized by a profusion of upscale dining establishments, opulent and distinctive hotels, lively bars, and a relatively sparse population of permanent inhabitants. Moreover, the area is widely acclaimed for its captivating street-art murals, which vividly depict manifold aspects of Colombian cultural heritage and political discourse.

DISCOVER THE ZONA CAFETERA (COFFEE ZONE)

The geographical area encircling Medellín is known as the Zona Cafetera, alternatively referred to as the 'coffee zone,' precisely because it hosts the nation's celebrated coffee cultivation sites. The majority of the coffee-producing territories are accessible by leveraging economical air services from either Medellín or Bogotá, specifically via Viva Air Colombia. Among the premier locales for visitors is the Cocora Valley, a site affording opportunities for guided treks to elevated viewpoints where one can intimately observe the striking wax palms, some of which attain heights of up to 200 meters (656 feet). These excursions frequently incorporate visits to other picturesque neighboring towns, such as Salento and Filandia.

ZIPAQUIRÁ'S SALT CATHEDRAL

Zipaquirá's Salt Cathedral stands as a truly awe-inspiring subterranean basilica, sculpted entirely from salt, and notably, it represents one of only three such extraordinary edifices existing worldwide. The remaining two similar constructions are situated within Poland. This salt-hewn cathedral is found within Zipaquirá, a locale conveniently accessible via a taxi day trip from Bogotá, being roughly an hour's journey from the central part of the capital. Upon arrival at the site, the admission fee stands at 50,000 Colombian pesos (which equates to approximately 17 US dollars) per individual, a price that notably incorporates a guided tour conducted in English.

CAÑO CRISTALES: THE "RIVER OF FIVE COLORS"

Caño Cristales, a river nestled deep within what was once deemed perilous FARC rebel dominion, constitutes one of Colombia's most remarkable natural marvels. Until the year 2014, access to Caño Cristales was strictly restricted for tourists. Commencing in 2014, however, it has become accessible and is now regarded as a secure destination for visitors, albeit exclusively when accompanied by an accredited tour operator. The river itself presents an extraordinarily striking spectacle. It is colloquially termed the 'rainbow river' due to its characteristic transformation into a vibrant palette of five distinct colors—namely red, orange, yellow, green, and blue—during the optimal period of the year, typically around September or October. This remarkable phenomenon is attributable to a unique synergy among specific aquatic flora, the captivating interplay of light, and the presence of circular rock formations, all of which coalesce to generate this extraordinary 'liquid rainbow' visual. Accessing the river necessitates air travel from Bogotá, with flights typically destined for La Macarena. While the designated visitor season for Caño Cristales spans from July through December, the absolute prime time for visitation occurs in September or October, during which the incidence of torrential tropical rainfall is lowest, given that precipitation has the potential to dampen the vibrancy of the colors. Consequently, much like observations of the Aurora Borealis, no absolute assurances can be given that visitors will witness the full chromatic range during their visit.

THE ARCHIPELAGO OF SAN ANDRÉS AND PROVIDENCIA

Situated in the Caribbean Sea, in close proximity to the Nicaraguan coast, these two islands stand as Colombia's most renowned insular territories. San Andrés, being the more extensively developed and geographically larger of the pair, benefits from direct, affordable air routes originating from both Medellín and Bogotá. Providencia, conversely, represents a veritable concealed gem, boasting some of Colombia's most exquisite beaches alongside a highly restricted array of lodging choices. Geographically, it is situated approximately 90 kilometers (or 56 miles) to the north of San Andrés. Given the absence of direct aerial connections from the mainland, visitors are required to first journey by air to San Andrés, subsequently opting for either a three-and-a-half-hour catamaran passage or a swift twenty-minute connecting flight. Consequently, while it draws fewer visitors than San Andrés, the endeavor is unequivocally justified.

EXPLORE GUATAPÉ AND ASCEND EL PEÑOL

Guatapé presents itself as an exquisitely picturesque town, situated roughly a two-hour bus journey from Medellín. Every structure within its central district is adorned with vibrant 'zocalos' (bas-reliefs), whose intricate designs typically depict the proprietor's chosen profession or personal interests. This locale is utterly captivating and most assuredly merits a visit. Immediately adjacent to Guatapé lies the renowned El Peñol, a colossal natural rock formation that rises to an impressive height of 198 meters (650 feet). A total of 740 steps are meticulously carved into its side, allowing visitors to ascend to its summit. Provided the skies are clear, the awe-inspiring panoramic vistas from its pinnacle extend across the entirety of the surrounding valley. One can readily explore both Guatapé and El Peñol as a single-day excursion originating from Medellín, though an even more rewarding experience might involve opting for an overnight stay within Guatapé itself.

HIKING, WHITEWATER RAFTING, AND ABSEILING IN TABIO

Tabio is a modest agrarian settlement boasting approximately 4,000 inhabitants, positioned about a two-hour vehicular journey from Bogotá's city center. It serves as a favored destination for those seeking an adventurous day excursion or a full weekend getaway. Among its prime offerings are invigorating hikes at Tiger Creek Mountain, the thrill of abseiling down the 75-meter (246-foot) Barandillas waterfall, and navigating the tumultuous currents of the Río Negro ('Black River') aboard inflatable dinghies.&xA0;

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Culinary Exploration: Colombian Cuisine

Colombia boasts an abundant and varied culinary tradition, profoundly shaped by influences from both its Andean highlands and the Caribbean littoral. The 'bandeja paisa' stands as the emblematic meal of Medellín and its encompassing Antioquia department. Individuals hailing from this particular area are designated 'paisas,' whilst the term 'bandeja' itself translates directly to 'tray' in the Spanish language. The 'bandeja paisa' itself consists of a generously portioned platter featuring a substantial assortment of components: rice, minced beef, kidney beans, 'chicharrón' (crispy pork rinds), chorizo sausage, 'morcilla' (blood sausage), a fried egg, slices of avocado, 'arepas,' and plantains.

'Chicharrones' are succulent, deep-fried pork belly delicacies, bearing a resemblance to thick-cut bacon rashers, yet distinguished by a substantial portion of rendered fat and merely a sliver of accompanying meat. These are widely consumed across the Andean territories, presented either as an independent culinary offering or integrated as a complementary component within substantial meals, such as the aforementioned 'bandeja paisa.'

'Arepas' serve as a prevalent breakfast item and highly favored street food, found widely throughout both Venezuela and Colombia. These consist of fried maize patties, which are available in a diverse range of dimensions and preparations. Within Medellín and its encompassing region, 'arepas' are generally diminutive, pallid, and circular, presented unadorned as a complementary item, often serving as a substitute for conventional bread. Conversely, in coastal metropolises such as Cartagena and Barranquilla, the 'arepas' are considerably more substantial, and are frequently filled with a variety of ingredients, thereby yielding a more satisfying and complete snack.&xA0;

'Ajiaco' is a distinctive broth crafted from chicken and potatoes, which holds particular prevalence in Bogotá. Given that the capital is situated profoundly within an Andean mountain valley, it experiences significantly cooler climatic conditions in contrast with Medellín and the tropical coastline. Consequently, robust stews such as 'ajiaco' are exceptionally favored in this locale.

Safety Advice for LGBTQ+ Travelers in Colombia

Despite Colombia's highly forward-thinking LGBTQ+ legislative framework, the broader society generally maintains a rather conservative stance, particularly along the coast, where a culture of machismo distinctly predominates. Therefore, LGBTQ+ visitors are encouraged to employ discretion and a measure of circumspection when venturing beyond the major urban centers. As an LGBTQ+ individual touring Colombia, it is highly improbable that you will encounter substantive difficulties, particularly within the designated tourist-centric zones. Mirroring the situation observed in the majority of global nations, a degree of homophobia will invariably persist, notably within the more agrarian communities, especially those proximate to the coastline. Colombia remains a profoundly Catholic nation; consequently, notwithstanding its LGBTQ+-affirming legislation, societal norms may nonetheless lean towards conservatism.

Essential Advice for LGBTQ+ Journeys in Colombia

Bogotá consistently ranks as the nation's foremost LGBTQ+ travel spot, boasting Theatron, which stands as one of the globe's most expansive LGBTQ+ venues, particularly vibrant on Saturday evenings. A majority of the country's principal urban centers typically host a modest Pride procession during the months of June, July, or August. The most considerable of these celebratory gatherings occur in Bogotá and Medellín. Cartagena's Pride festivities are held concurrently with the circuit-style dance festival known as Rumours. Furthermore, Bogotá hosts a substantial and widely attended LGBTQ+ festival for Halloween, an event that draws numerous participants from across the nation's LGBTQ+ community.

Another well-attended annual occurrence featuring a dedicated LGBTQ+ component is the Barranquilla Carnival, celebrated each February. Throughout the Carnival festivities, a specific day is allocated solely for the LGBTQ+ community, which consistently stands out as the most vibrant and highly attended portion. This particular day effectively engulfs the whole urban area, with all inhabitants partaking in the revelry, donning festive attire, and ensuring that celebrations persist unabated throughout the nocturnal period and into the nascent morning.

About the Authors

We are Stefan and Sebastien, a same-sex couple originating from London, who, in 2014, opted to relocate from our metropolitan residences to embark on a journey of global exploration. Through our LGBTQ+ travel chronicle, 'Nomadic Boys,' we meticulously document the diverse LGBTQ+ landscapes prevalent in every single destination we encounter.

Photography credit: Santiago Ortiz&xA0;@santiagortizl&xA0;for&xA0;Proudly&xA0;@proudlyweds

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